Broome and the Cape Leveque Peninsula

From memory, I have mentioned how amazed I am at the diversity of this incredible country of ours. The arrival at Cable Beach in Broome only 300 kms from the Gibb River Road only reinforces this statement. Broome is a very seasonal town and at this time of year the Grey Nomads arrive in their thousands to set up camp for up to 6 months. I am told that the fixed population is 15000 people however this swells to 45000 during the peak of the tourist season.

We set up camp at the Cable Beach Caravan Park which is one of the oldest caravan parks in Broome and set on some prime real estate. 450 sites – Fully booked at around $50 – 60 dollars a day is good money if you can get it. I would hate to see the rate bill though. That said, it is situated in perfect spot and we spent the day on the Cable Beach which really is one of the most superb beached in Australia with white sand and clear water. The girls were in their element as they ran up and down the beach and collected shells.

Cable Beach - Picture perfect!

In the afternoon we headed to Gantheaume Point. The main lighthouse is situated here and the rock formations and colours were superb. As we arrived at the point, we looked out to see a pod of whales just off the coast.

The rock formations at Gantheume Point were stunning

The lighthouse

Whales of the point

In the evening we headed to Ben and Michelle Madin’s for dinner. Lucie worked with Ben when she first graduated from Vet School in WA and they are now based in Broome. We had a superb meal with them and it was great to catch up after a very long time.

After a couple of days in Broome we decided to head North to Middle Lagoon and to tackle the Cape Leveque Road that we had heard was not a particularly good road. Lucie and I felt that if we could survive the Kulumbaru Road surely we could handle the 100kms of sand and corrugations up to Middle Lagoon. I was glad to see that the road was nowhere near as bad as we thought it might be. The red sand track was in pretty good shape and the trip was uneventful.

On the way up we called into Beagle Bay. This is the aboriginal community that was used in the filming of Brand Nue Dae. The Sacred Heart Chapel built in 1917 by the brothers and aboriginals was amazing with the pearl and cowry shell alter.

The Sacred Heart Chapel

They have serious school buses up here!

We arrived at Middle Lagoon just before lunch and set up camp and then went down to explore the beaches. All I can say is what a superb place to stay! The contrast from the red dirt to the white sands sets up a stunning back ground and as you can see below. The sunset was incredible from the cliff that overlooks the beach. There are also small shacks /cabins here that overlook the beach which you can rent and the next time we come here, we will be lining up to stay in one of these. Maybe not at $250 a night!!

Middle Lagoon

Sunset at Middle Lagoon

Our second day at Middle Lagoon was superb and was spent on the beach swimming, the girls collecting an ever increasing number of shells and also whale watching. It is amazing to see these huge creatures 150m off the point at Middle Lagoon with their calves. The sight of them breaching and playing is one we will not forget quickly. We went to a small little cove called Whale Song which has an outstanding cafe and view to match for lunch. It was just 6 kms from Middle lagoon and had an incredible lunch of fresh pizza and mango smoothies. Lunch turned into afternoon tea and 4 hours later and a walk on the beach we left very contented!

Early morning shell collecting

I think they were having fun!

Whales of the Middle Lagoon Point - there were so many to be seen.

Day 3 saw a trip up the peninsula to Cape Leveque via Lombadina. Lombadina is considered one of the most effective aboriginal communities in Australia with everyone having to work to keep the town tidy. Well the town was tidy and with green grass freshly mowed. We picked up some freshly baked bread and headed on to Cape Leveque. I must make one comment though – the only people I saw working were white cutting lawns and running the shop! Maybe I am a little cynical yet I was great to see an effective aboriginal community.

Cape Leveque reminded me of El Questro a little with its smart marketing machine operating in full swing. We arrived at the Koolaman resort to be told there was a $10 day charge and that we would have to walk to all the beaches some kilometre away. Not that I minded the fee, it was just been told by a French and German backpacker manning the front desk that we could not drive down to the beach because they were so full.

Cape Leveque 

Well – I am sorry to say that the Manifolds broke the rules and drove straight in! The beaches were stunning and the girls enjoyed the opportunity to swim with some of the friends that they have made along the way. Again the red cliffs against the white sands were a magnificent sight. That said, would I swap Cape Leveque for Middle Lagoon ?? – No way!  They are both great places, yet I really appreciated the laid back and simple environment of Middle Lagoon. It was a real little community and everyone was very happy to share ideas and chat about anything. I will get back to this place again – next time for a lot longer!

Day 4 was spent fishing with the Wynne Family – another one of the families who are travelling with 3 children all of similar ages to Sophie and Annabel. The girls had a great time building sand chairs to watch the sunsets and sharing stories around the campfire toasting marsh-mellows!

Sophie's garfish 

The morning was very successful fishing wise and everyone caught garfish. For Bella it was her first fishing success so she was very proud of her efforts! We said our goodbyes and headed off for Broome. The evening was spent at Sun Pictures – The oldest continuous outdoor cinema in the world. The film – Ice Age 4 much to the girls delight.