Broome – 80 Mile Beach – Karijini National Park (The Pilbara) – Tom Price – Exmouth

It is hard to believe that we have now been on the road for nearly 8 weeks. Time is flying, yet when we think back about what we have done and seen, it is quite amazing.

Since I last updated the blog, we spent our last days in Broome on Cable Beach and taking a sunset camel ride along the beach. There are 3 tourist camel rides and we choose the red camels! The 30 minute ride was enjoyed by all and was a great way to end our final evening in Broome. Sophie and I were on the lead camel Ashwan and Annabel and Lucie were right behind on Jacko. They are interesting creatures whose walking gate is like cantering on a horse in slow motion.

Sunset on Cable Beach

Luckily we had timed (unintentionally) our last morning to coincide with a very low tide (0.71m) which allowed a early start (6.00am) to head out to Gantheaume Point again to see the dinosaur foot prints which lie below the cliffs at the point. It was incredible to think that these foot prints have been here for 20 million years and it was a challenge to try and get the girls to comprehend this time frame!!

From there it was a quick drive around to the Town beach on the opposite side of Broome to walk out to the Catalina plane wrecks. These remains are from the Second World War when the Japanese shot down three civilian sea planes. Both Lucie and I had thought that these were located off Gantheaume Point so the walk out to these wrecks some 2 kilometres off shore turned into a run when we passed a man who said to me “Do you think you will make it in time – the water in the channel has turned and was up to my knees!!” Fortunately I made it just in time and in some regards it was perfect timing as I was out there at the wreck by myself for a couple of minutes which allowed me to get some pictures without tourist all around the wreck. The return back to shore was just in time as the water was up to my waist and coming in quickly.

As I caught back up with the girls on the way in, we came across a large sea turtle which was a great way to finish our time in Broome. We returned back to the caravan park and packed up the last of the camper trailer and were on the road by 8.30am for 80 Mile Beach.

The trip to 80 Mile Beach was uneventful and about 3 and a half hours later we arrived at a very interesting place. 80 Mile Beach is a beautiful beach which is inhabited by 100’s of fishermen who head out onto the beach for hours each day in the search of a big fish. It was incredible to see them all head off 2 hours before high tide to stake their spot and look out anyone who decided to get to close to them to fish. This meant that you had to walk nearly a kilometre up the beach to find a spot!.

The other thing that 80 Mile Beach is renowned for is its shells much to the delight of everyone. We were really pleased to catch up with the Wynne family who we had met at Middle Lagoon and so all the kids had a fantastic time searching for BIG shells. We awoke after our first night at 80 Mile Beach to a thick fog at sunrise and again to a very low tide. The walk out to the foreshore was over 2km and it was hard to believe that within 5 hours, the tide was right back up near the base of the sand dunes. 

Sunrise and a very low tide at 80 Mile Beach

In the afternoon Michael and I joined the throng of fishermen trying to catch fish with little success, and then we decided to drive about 8 km up the beach to try and find some better shells for the girls. Well we were not disappointed and the 2 hours flew with our collection of shells becoming bigger by the minute. Our time with the Wynne Family was fantastic as Michael and Amanda were great fun and the kids got on so well.

80 Mile Beach

A great afternoon with the Wynne Family

As a side note – 80 Mile Beach has some unique residents! The Captain (or self appointed Coast Watch Supervisor) was a very interesting man to say the least. On our arrival at 80 Mile Beach we were greeted by a female on an ATV in white shorts, a white T-Shirt with Coast watch on the back and she was wearing a Captains hat!! This man has 2 large shipping containers with a shelter over the top. Under the shelter he has a full size above ground pool and a spa bath. On further investigation, the man called “Captain” has 6 women living with him and at 5pm they all change out of their uniforms into white terry towelling bath robes and close the doors!! – Look out Hugh Heffner. It was hilarious to speak to this man to hear how he was there to supervise the 80 miles of beach for the government and was quick to let me know that he had a direct line to the police to report illegal immigrants and drug traders.

The Captain heading in for the afternoon!

One of the Coast Watch shelters on 80 Mile Beach

The next day, we decided that we would make an early start and leave 80 Mile Beach in convoy with the Wynne’s to get to Karijini National Park in the Pilbara. This was about 600kms so we left at 6.30am with the aim to have breakfast in Pt Hedland so we could break the back of the trip early and get into Dales Camp ground at a reasonable hour in order to get a site. The early morning start was fantastic in hindsight as the views we were greeted with as the sun rose were superb.

 Along the way we passed the biggest two pieces of Mining equipment I have ever seen. Matthew you would have been impressed with the haulage set up. The main trailer was huge and the piece of machinery could be seen from at least 2 km away. The two trailers were on their way from Pt Hedland to Tom Price.

24 axles - and hundreds of tyres!

Pt Hedland was not the most inspiring town. Everything centred around mining and everything is red from the iron ore appart from the huge mountain of salt - a by product of the processing of the ore. As we drove into town we were greeted by the longest train I have ever seen - the girls gave up counting the number of carriages carrying iron ore when they got to 130 and we were only a quarter of the way along the train and carriages. 

So where is all our iron ore going ???

Just some of the carriages!

The mountain of salt

We arrived at Karijini by about 2.30pm and were fortunate to get a couple of campsites side by side in the Dingo Camp Ground. After setting up we headed off to Dales Gorge just down the road to have a quick look before dinner.

The Chichester Range - heading towards Karijini

Dales Gorge

While I was over gorges by the end of the Gibb River Road, the red colour of the iron ore in the cliffs at the sunset was stunning. The next day we were up and ready for a day to explore Karjini. We decided to start with Kalamina Gorge. This was a relatively easy walk and the kids had great fun clambering over the rocks and enjoyed the final climb up to the rock arch. What was most impressive were the rock formations. MJK would have been in his element with the folding and faulting that was present. This combined with the colours made for a stunning walk.

The waterfall at the beginning of the Kalmunda Gorge

The kids climbing up to the blow hole

From here we headed further into the park to the Joffre and Knox Gorge lookouts. These were stunning and again the sheer size of the cliffs and the narrow gorges were incredible. Looking down into Joffre Gorge we could see some people swimming below and another couple half way up the waterfall at the end of the gorge. This looked spectacular!

Joffre Falls

Looking right from the Knox lookout

We decided to push on to Weano Gorge for lunch and the Oxer Lookout. This look out was at the junction of the Weano, Hancock and Red Gorges. By this stage the kids were starting to fade and there was a need for a swim. We decided to return to Joffre Gorge and to make the steep walk down into Joffre Gorge. The walk down was tackled really well by all the kids and the view from the bottom was incredible. Before long, Lucie and Michael and all the kids were half way up the waterfall at the end of the Gorge! The water was bloody cold, yet it was well worth it.

The bottom of Joffre Gorge

Heading down from after climbing up the waterfall

The colours in the rock formations were stunning

Getting warm after cool swim!

The trip down into Joffre Gorge was a fantastic decision as everyone was challenged and Amanda overcame her fear of heights very quickly! The kids including Monty (5 yrs old) loved the climbing and did a great job getting down and back up from the gorge.

We headed back to Dales Camp and on the way decided that we would finish the day by heading to Fortescue Falls and to have a swim at Fern Pool. The waterhole at Fern pool was quite warm and the water coming over the water fall was like a warm spa. A great way to finish off a long day!

Fortescue Falls

Fern Pool

The next day we decided to head off for Tom Price as we had to book some accommodation for the Coral Coast and to try and take 100 km’s of the next stretch to Exmouth. We headed to the Karijini Visitor Centre which is made from steel and shaped in the shape of a goanna. A $4 mil dollar building which was well worthwhile, yet it was interesting to note all the plaques had been ripped off which obviously made mention of government funding and who had opened the building. Maybe I am a cynic!!

Today we said goodbye to the Wynne Family in Tom Price as we headed off to Exmouth via Paraburdoo. We have had a lot of fun with them and it was sad to say goodbye. The 650km trip through the Pilbara and Gasgoyne areas saw an ever changing landscape. The Pilbara is an incredible area and one we will need to come back to explore further. Unfortunately time is catching up so we have to push on.

Sophie, Lilly, Monty, Rigby, & Annabel

Monty (4) and Amanda and Michael Wynne - A very funny last evening together!

 For the next week we will spend time on the Coral Coast between Exmouth and Coral Bay before heading down to Denham and Monkey Mia and then on to Perth via Geraldton.